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Eating in Italy - Primi

In the two previous articles about ‘Eating in Italy’, we’ve learned about the apertivo and the antipasto. Today, we delve into the official first course, or the primi (it seems that primo means ‘first’, and its plural primi means ‘first courses’).

In the US, we go from from appetizer (antipasto), to a salad perhaps, to our entrée. In Italy, the entrée is divided into two parts: the primi, and the secondi. So, we are definitely ready to dig into the heart of the Italian meal.

“...to the right, you see primi which we have personally eaten, sung praises about, and pledged our undying love.”

While primi may include zuppa and minestre (soups), today it is primarily pasta…though a risotto is often found in the primi category. You will see actual menu items below with each of these categories represented.

And, to the right, you see primi which we have personally eaten, sung praises about, and pledged our undying love. Some of the primi are simple…some are elegant…but all are (or at least ‘were’) scrumptious!

I know you’ve heard of pasta, and, a few months ago I took a deep dive into pasta in the article titled, “Pasta, Pasta, Pasta”. As the primi is so pasta-centric, you may want to go back to refresh your memory on this subject.

Pre-Made, or House-Made?

Pasta secca (dried pasta) can be found on many Italian menus in the primi course. This is because not all osteria, trattoria or ristorante have the pasta machines with the dies necessary to extrude hollow shapes like bucatini, maccheroni or penne pastas. So, these may very well be purchased in a dry form by the establishment.

However, if we are going to dine on tagliatelle, tortellini, ravioli, pappardelle, cannelloni, gnocchi, or lasagne, it may as well, and probably will be, house-made fresh as pasta fresca…and they may proudly proclaim that a pasta is house made. And then for variation, there’s pasta made with egg, or just the yoke. And pasta made with just water and no egg. And the flour might be semolina, refined flour, or some specialty flour that is ground very fine. Yadda, yadda, yadda. The list of possibilities is not endless, but it’s a long list.

But, here’s the thing…don’t worry about any of that…you are going to be ordering something scrumptious off the menu’s primi section that will be fabulous. It’s not like you’re going to be crafting the pasta yourself. And, like with meats, it’s not necessary to understand how that meat got from farm to plate…we just don’t need that much information, do we? So, just eat it, ok. Take you time. Savor it. Ahhh. You’re in Italy…things are slower and tastier there.

I love this Jim Gaffigan routine…

Straight Man: “Do you know what they’ve done to that chicken?!”
Jim Gaffigan: “No, but it’s delicious”.

Right from the Menu!

It seems to me that the best way to describe what primi might exist on an Italian menu is to go to actual menus, whether it be an osteria, trattoria, or ristorante within Italy.

Below, you will see a long list of right-off-the-menu primi from places that we’ve eaten, and have written about in previous articles.

If you spend a bit of time perusing these menu items: 1) you will work up an appetite; 2) you will see items that just don’t land on the menu of an Italian restaurant outside Italy; and 3) you will see words that are not in our vocabulary. And for some, you will see from whence they hail, like the very first pasta listed.

Pasta e Ravioli

Egg pasta of the Piedmontese tradition, strictly homemade together with meat sauce or with butter and sage.
Homemade Tajarin long pasta in white meats ragu sauce / or with mountain butter and 40 months aged Parmigiano Reggiano
Homemade ravioli pasta with mountain butter and 36 months aged Parmigiano Reggiano / or in roasts gravy sauce
Bossolasco's Spaghetti alla chitarra, clams and Piedmont hazelnut flavored with lemon
Strictly homemade egg pasta with one of the oldest cereals in the world, perfectly married with our ragù
Small agnolotti typical of the Langhe — closed directly by our "plin" (pinch).
Spaghetti "Busara" with scampi
See bass ravioli and small ratatouille
Homemade noodles with basil and cherry tomatoes prawns and pine nuts
Spaghetti with Italian clams
Homemade “tagliolini” with duck ragout and orange zest
Spaghetti with garlic, extra Virgin olive oil, chili and red prawns
Ravioli filled with herbs and Parmesan fondue, mushrooms stock
Tagliatelle Bolognese
Tagliarelle Amatriciana
Green tagliarelle with pesto sauce
Pappardelle with ragù
Pappardelle kamut with saffron and bacon
Veal cannelloni Cheese and spinaci ravioli
Pappardelle pasta with oysters, Iranian saffron and smoked ham
Homemade Ravioli with Morlacco Cheese with broccoli cream sauce and sea scallops
Brown bigoli pasta with sardines and onions sauce
Lasagnette with Pierina's traditional ragu sauce
Tortelli pasta with a seasonal filling
Mezzi paccheri of Gragnano (short pasta) made with genovese of grandma Gemma
Home-made scialatielli pasta with clams, leeks and baked tomatoes
Ravioli filled with goat cheese, and with “datterino” tomatoes and basil
Gnocchi served together with one of the most renowned and famous Piedmontese aromatic cheeses.
Paccheri (short pasta) stuffed with burrata cheese and black truffle with “scungilli” sauce (the word “scungilli” is the Neapolitan dialect word for conch) [see photo below]

Zucca (Soup)

Seasonal vegetable soup, served hot with croutons.
Cream of spelt and beans soup served with salt cod timbale

Risotto

Risotto with saffron, white onions stock, red chicory [radicchio] and bottarga
Scampi and finferli mushrooms risotto
Cipriani risotto
Risotto with fennel and shrimp tartar with lime parfume
Rice with red prawns cooked and raw with “sfusato amalfitano lemon”

As you can see, in the real world of Italian dining, the primi is heavy on pastas, and lighter on soups and risotto.

And, when you don’t understand a word or two in a primi description, ask your server, they will be happy to explain.

The last item in the Pasta category is “Paccheri (short pasta) stuffed with burrata cheese and black truffle with “scungilli” sauce (the word “scungilli” is the Neapolitan dialect word for conch)” - these words are taken right from the menu.

This is an item on the Da Gemma menu, which I wrote about last June. And yes, it is a ‘gem’ of a trattoria. You can relive the article HERE.

I just wanted you to see a delectable primi, that’s all.

See Them Make Their Own!

I’m sure that you will fall in love with these pasta-grannies (and there are a few pasta-grampies thrown in, also).

I know that this does not relate to dining out in Italy, but these women (and a couple of men) really know how to make a primi.

At last count, there are over 365 YouTube videos of very charming grandmothers throughout Italy who have kept alive the tradition of making pasta at home. And, it’s not just one type of pasta, but many. And there are pasta shapes and sizes of which you have never heard, I’m sure. Possibly folks in the next town haven’t even heard of them!

Check out a few of these short videos, I’m thinking that you’ll be glad you did. You will see their pasta boards, their long, long rolling pins, their shaping techniques, and their pleasure in tasting their creations.

Just click on the image, and enjoy. And, there is no language barrier, as you will have subtitles to explain their process.

In Memoriam

I’m sad to say that the oldest Pasta Grannie, 102 year old signora Concetta, died on 27 January, 2022.

Her life and pasta will be missed by many in her small village, but her spirit and pasta-making expertise will live on, as she has passed it on to several generations. Yes, even to you.

She was preceded in death 10 days earlier, by her lifelong friend, 102 year old Biagio.

To live so long, and to have life-long friends with you on her journey…God has truly blessed this woman…and those around her.

Please take a moment to see this beautiful woman making her pasta by clicking on her photo. [unmute the video if necessary]

Addio Concetta e Biagio.

I hope you have enjoyed your primi course today. In my next installment of Eating in Italy, we’ll dive into the secondi. And, it you missed the introductory article on the meal courses while dining in Italy, you can check it out here.

My sincere desire is that you and I will one day be sitting in a small Italian trattoria enjoying our primi along with a glass of wonderful Italian wine. But, until then, I say…

Ciao for now,

Steve

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For a closer look at these primi, click the first image

Eating in Italy - The Courses & Apertivo

Index of Articles

Today we begin a journey into the the world’s most popular food — Italian food. We’ll start with the courses one might expect to see on a menu in Italy.

Oh the Places You’ll Eat…

First, let’s recognize that there are several types of eating establishments in Italy. In the U.S., ours are not as distinctly recognized. For instance, we subjectively use the words “café” to describe a restaurant of a certain style, as there is not really much of an objective definition. And we use the word “restaurant” to describe almost any place we eat. It’s a bit different in Italia.

Here are some of the types of eating establishments in Italy:

Bar or Caffé — These are open for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner. You will have the opportunity to order coffee (caffé), soft drinks (analcolico), wine (vino), and cocktails (cocktail or apertivo). So, let’s not think of an Italian stand-alone “bar” as we usually do in the US, where it is typically just a place for beer, wine and cocktails. An Italian bar is where you go in the morning to get your coffee, say good morning (buon giorno) to neighbors and sit to sip and read a newspaper (giornale)…ahem, or look at your phone (telefonino), I guess.

Osteria — A bit more formal than a bar. Often family owned serving simple wines and a limited food menu of pasta and a couple of meat dishes. The menu may be printed, on a blackboard, or recited by the server. Your wine glass may be filled from a spigot.

Trattoria — Generally much less formal than a ristorante, but more formal than an osteria. Think of a trattoria as a diner or café. Expect casual, modest, low priced, wine by the decanter, and regional foods.

Ristorante — We are now getting into more of a fine-dining category. Expect a tablecloth, extensive menus, upscale waitstaff, and finer wines. Oh, and don’t forget that you’ll be paying more.

Pizzeria — As it sounds, it’s an Italian pizza joint. Hopefully, you will find a wood-fired oven. We like an inexpensive Chianti with our pizza…no need for an expensive bottle of wine here.

Paninoteca — If you want a quick bite for lunch, the sandwich shops of Italy are excellent. Great bread? Yep. Great meats and cheeses? Yep. Expensive? Nope. Maybe accompanied by a Coca-Cola Lite (aka Diet Coke).

Gelateria — Man oh man…do we love a good gelato…and Italy has the best…obviously. Expect flavors that you will not get in American ice cream selections. Exotic berries, hard-to-find nuts, yum. Not open for breakfast, but do expect them to be open late into the evening.

So, those are the places you will eat. Now, what’s on the menu?

What’s on the Menu?

In the U.S. we usually see appetizers, soups & salads, entrées, and desserts. We expect to have access to a pre-dinner cocktail, and wine or beer during dinner. Coffee? Sure, either with or without dessert.

Understand that the Italian menu may not display each of the words below, but they are there in the minds of the Italians as they go about dining. For example, does the U.S. dinner menu at your favorite restaurant with a bar even mention that cocktails are available? Probably not, though there may be a separate, special drink menu available. Yet, you know that the predinner cocktails are available, and that the bartender will know how to make what you want. So, here are the typical ‘courses’ you might expect, either on a menu or just in the head of the Italian diner.

The apertivo (plural is apertivi, and please note that it’s not an appetizer, but a drink), antipasto (plural is antipasti), primo (plural is primi, which is usually what will be on a menu), secondo (plural is secondi, which is usually what will be on the menu), contorno (plural contorni), and dolci (the singular of dolco or ‘sweet’, is not generally used).

Today’s article will focus on just the apertivo. You’ll have to wait in sweet anticipation for the dolci!

Apertivo (pl Apertivi)

In Italy, let’s start with an apertivo, or predinner drink. When you think of a predinner drink, you probably think of ‘cocktail’, and you may be envisioning a Whiskey Sour, Martini, Cosmopolitan, Gin & Tonic, Margarita, or one of hundreds of other mixed drinks. The traditional pre-meal apertivi are a bit simpler, with long histories, and with ingredients made with herbs — giving the apertivi a bit of a bitter flavor when imbibed on its own. So, on their own, they are not high in alcohol. Some are sipped, and others are mixed with simple accompaniments.

And, please note that I am not promoting the use of alcohol, but reporting on what those Italians are reportedly doing.

Here are a few apertivi that you will find during your Italian journeys and dining.

CYNAR

How about a Cynar? Made from 13 herbs and plants, predominant among which is the artichoke (What, you say?! Yes! I say — artichoke!), from which the drink derives its name in Latin. It’s dark brown, and reportedly has a bittersweet flavor.

Here’s how an Italian might drink it (From Difford’s Guide)

2 oz Cynar
1 oz Sweet Vermouth
Juice of squeezed lemon wedge
3 dashes Orange Bitters
Lemon peel twist

They are so proud of the artichoke that there is one on the label of the bottle.

CAMPARI

There is no more beautiful Italian drink than a Campari and soda with lime. Brilliant red and sparkling. Go ahead and take a taste. Wow, did your lips stick to your teeth?

Campari is a dry, bitter, beautifully bright red liquor that was invented at the same time Italy became a country, about 85 years after the United States did. Before traveling to Italy, I might take a small sip of Campari now and then “to build up an immunity” to it’s bitter taste. It is usually used as an ingredient of the Negroni cocktail (gin and vermouth with Campari). But even in a cocktail, you won’t forget that you’re drinking a unique apertivo. Campari’s less bitter cousin is Aperol, which is next.

APEROL

A spritz made with Aperol, anyone? Yes, please. One of Italy’s go-to summer drinks…and it’s become popular at our house because of it’s low alcohol content. Oranges are in Aperol’s preparation, though you will also find gentian, rhubarb, and cinchona, among its ingredients. Take a bit of prosecco, add some white wine and Aperol, and now you have a refreshing Aperol spritz!

A spritz was primarily an Austrian and northern Italian drink (Veneto, Friuli and the Trentino-Alto Adige), but it has migrated to all of Italy and now, the world. The term ‘spritz’ came from the Austrian "Gespritzter" (think of a spritzer that spritzes water on your plants). You may remember that prior to Italy becoming Italy, they had a strong affiliation with Austria. To stay alert whilst imbibing, Austrian soldiers would ask for a spritz of water in their wine to dilute its effects. Thus ends our history lesson for today.

GALLIANO

Galliano is a key ingredient to a Harvey Wallbanger, which is pretty much unheard of since the 70s. You’ll notice a hint of anise, along with several other ingredients.

The Harvey Wallbanger of the 70s is made with Vodka, orange juice and Galliano. Here’s the recipe.

I have no idea how an Italian might partake Galliano as an apertivo. If you are an Italian, please weigh in on this.

VERMOUTH

For you martini fans, you’ll be familiar with Vermouth.

I’m told that a very-dry martini is made by pouring gin into a glass whilst looking at the Vermouth bottle.

You need to know that Vermouth was invented right there in Italy in 1786 in Turin.

Before purchasing a Vermouth, you must decide between a sweet Vermouth, or a dry Vermouth (a less-sweet version).

Wine as an Apertivo

Of course you can have a glass of wine as an apertivo. Whether it is vino rosso (red wine), vino bianco (white wine), or the more modern vino rosato (rose wine), you will enjoy most any wine that you are served in Italy. We have had a glass of wine served from a spigot in a simple osteria, a carafe at trattorie, and from the bottle at many other dining places.

You want proof that one can enjoy a glass of wine as an apertivo? Here we are on the island of Isola dei Pescatori on Lake Maggiore. We are dining at Ristorante Verbano, and we are happy. It’s not necessarily because of the wine, but we are definitely happy. We find ourselves that way most of the time whilst we are in Italy. Go figure.

Here’s the thing…and that thing is that in Italy, they take great pride in their wine (amongst other things), and a proprietor will refuse to serve you an inferior wine *. So, other than that one experience where we were forewarned, wine in Italy has been exceptional, wherever we may have been dining.

*Except at one place in Venice…actually one of the premier Venetian ristorante…but the manager did say that we were probably not going to like it…and we didn’t…and after taking a few sips, Leslie said, “Non, we are not drinking this wine”, and the rest of us said, “Thank goodness someone said something!”…and as promised, the manager replaced that bottle of wine with a very pleasant one. The moral of the story: when in Italy, don’t panic…someone will take care of you, as promised.

Bottom line: a glass of wine in Italy makes a great apertivo to start your dining experience!

So, our appetite has been wetted whetted with an apertivo. Let’s get a bite to eat. Next time, we look at the Antipasto. Meanwhile, I may have a sip of Campari, just to build up an immunity for the next time we find ourselves in wonderful Italy.

Once again I say…

Ciao for now,

Steve